
How to Kill Ivy Grass and Restore Your Lawn Step-by-Step

The Botanical Reality: What is 'Ivy Grass'?
When homeowners refer to 'ivy grass,' they are almost exclusively talking about Ground Ivy (Glechoma hederacea), also widely known as Creeping Charlie. It is not a true grass, nor is it related to English Ivy (Hedera helix). Ground ivy is an aggressive, perennial broadleaf weed in the mint family that infiltrates turfgrass canopies, choking out desirable grass species through dense stoloniferous matting and allelopathic chemical interference.
Eradicating ground ivy requires abandoning generic 'weed and feed' products and executing a targeted, multi-step chemical and cultural protocol. The following guide outlines the exact procedures used by turfgrass professionals to eliminate this weed and restore the lawn.
Step 1: Positive Identification and Lawn Assessment
Before mixing any chemicals, confirm the weed's identity. Misidentification leads to wasted money and turf damage. Ground ivy exhibits three distinct characteristics:
- Leaf Structure: Round to kidney-shaped leaves with heavily scalloped (crenated) edges, typically 0.5 to 1.5 inches wide.
- Stem and Growth: Square stems (a hallmark of the mint family) that root at the nodes (stolons) as they creep horizontally across the soil surface.
- The Crush Test: Crush a leaf between your fingers. Ground ivy emits a distinct, pungent minty or musky odor.
Assess the density of the infestation. If ground ivy covers less than 30% of your lawn, spot-treatment is viable. If it exceeds 50%, you are likely facing a full lawn renovation scenario, as killing the weed will leave massive bare patches vulnerable to erosion and secondary weed invasions.
Step 2: Selecting the Correct Herbicide Chemistry
Ground ivy has a thick, waxy cuticle and a complex, deep-rooted stolon network. Standard 2,4-D herbicides will burn the top growth but fail to translocate to the roots, resulting in rapid regrowth within 14 days. You must use products containing Triclopyr.
According to turfgrass research from the NC State TurfFiles program, Triclopyr is the most effective active ingredient for controlling mint-family weeds. For residential use, look for concentrates that combine Triclopyr with 2,4-D, MCPP, and Dicamba for a synergistic effect.
| Active Ingredient | Example Product (2026 Market) | Efficacy on Ground Ivy | Notes & Limitations |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2,4-D (Amine) | Standard generic broadleaf killers | Poor (20-30%) | Only burns foliage; massive regrowth occurs. |
| Dicamba | Trimec formulations | Moderate (50-60%) | Helps suppress, but rarely achieves full root kill alone. |
| Triclopyr | Ortho Weed B Gon Chickweed, Clover & Oxalis | High (80-90%) | Excellent translocation to stolons and roots. |
| Triclopyr + 2,4-D + MCPP + Dicamba | Fertilome Weed Free Zone | Exceptional (95%+) | The gold standard for residential eradication. |
Step 3: The Two-Application Fall Eradication Protocol
Timing is the most critical variable in ground ivy control. The University of Minnesota Extension emphasizes that fall applications (late September through mid-October) are vastly superior to spring applications. In autumn, ground ivy is actively pulling carbohydrates down into its root system for winter storage, dragging the systemic herbicide down with it.
The Mixing and Application Procedure
- Add Surfactant: Ground ivy repels water. Add a Non-Ionic Surfactant (NIS) like Hi-Yield Spreader Sticker to your tank mix at a rate of 0.25% v/v (approximately 1/2 teaspoon per gallon of water). This breaks the surface tension, allowing the herbicide to coat the waxy leaves evenly.
- Mix the Herbicide: Fill a 2-gallon pump sprayer halfway with water. Add the Triclopyr-based concentrate (e.g., Fertilome Weed Free Zone at 2 fl oz per gallon). Agitate, then fill the rest of the tank with water.
- First Application: Spray the foliage until it is visibly wet, but not dripping. Avoid spraying on days where wind exceeds 5 mph or when temperatures are above 85°F to prevent volatilization and turf burn.
- Wait and Water: Do not mow for 48 hours before or 48 hours after application. Ensure the lawn receives at least 0.5 inches of water within 24 hours post-application to activate soil absorption.
- Second Application: Wait exactly 21 to 28 days. Apply a second treatment to any surviving nodes. This second pass catches weeds that were in a dormant growth stage during the first spray.
Step 4: Post-Eradication Soil Correction and Overseeding
Ground ivy thrives in compacted, poorly drained soils with low turf density. Once the weed is dead, you must alter the soil environment to prevent its return. According to Penn State Extension, ground ivy exploits thin turf canopies where sunlight reaches the soil surface.
Core Aeration and Overseeding Steps
- Core Aeration: Rent a walk-behind core aerator and make two passes over the affected area in perpendicular directions. Pull 3-inch deep plugs to relieve soil compaction and improve drainage.
- Topdressing: Apply a 1/4-inch layer of screened compost over the aerated area to introduce beneficial soil microbes and improve moisture retention.
- Overseeding: Select a shade-tolerant, aggressive grass seed. For cool-season lawns, a mix of Turf-Type Tall Fescue and Creeping Red Fescue is ideal. Apply seed at a rate of 6 to 8 lbs per 1,000 sq ft.
- Starter Fertilizer: Apply a starter fertilizer high in phosphorus (e.g., 18-24-12) to promote rapid root development in the new seedlings before winter.
Step 5: Long-Term Cultural Prevention
Chemical eradication is temporary if the underlying cultural flaws remain. Implement these permanent maintenance adjustments:
Mowing and Irrigation Adjustments
Raise your mower deck to a minimum of 3.5 to 4.0 inches. Taller grass blades cast dense shade over the soil surface, depriving ground ivy seeds and stolons of the photosynthetically active radiation (PAR) they need to establish. Furthermore, transition from frequent, shallow watering to deep, infrequent irrigation (1 inch per week, applied in 1 or 2 sessions) to encourage deep turfgrass roots that outcompete the shallow-rooted ground ivy.
Do not use '20 Mule Team Borax' to kill ground ivy. While ground ivy is sensitive to boron, the concentration required to kill it (approx. 8 oz per gallon per 1,000 sq ft) will cause severe phytotoxicity to Kentucky Bluegrass and Tall Fescue. Boron does not break down easily in soil; applying it can render your soil sterile, preventing any grass seed from germinating for years.
Ivy Grass Eradication FAQ
Will pulling ground ivy by hand work?
Hand-pulling is only effective for isolated, single-plant incursions. Because ground ivy roots at every stolon node, snapping the vine leaves microscopic root fragments in the soil that will regenerate new plants within 7 to 10 days. If you hand-pull, you must use a weeding fork to extract every node, which is highly labor-intensive for large infestations.
Is ground ivy toxic to pets?
Yes. Glechoma hederacea contains volatile oils and terpenes that can cause gastrointestinal distress, vomiting, and diarrhea in dogs and cats if ingested in large quantities. Eradicating it from play areas is highly recommended for pet owners.
Can I use a pre-emergent to stop ivy grass?
Pre-emergent herbicides (like Prodiamine or Dithiopyr) are designed to stop crabgrass and annual grassy weeds from germinating. They have virtually zero efficacy against perennial broadleaf weeds like ground ivy, which spreads primarily through vegetative stolons rather than seed. Focus entirely on post-emergent systemic herbicides.

