
How to Get Rid of an Armadillo Digging in Your Lawn

Identifying Armadillo Lawn Damage
The nine-banded armadillo (Dasypus novemcinctus) is a nocturnal forager that causes extensive turf damage while searching for soil-dwelling insects. Unlike skunks, which peel back grass in shallow divots, armadillos dig distinct conical holes that are typically 3 to 5 inches deep and 1 to 2 inches wide. A single armadillo can excavate dozens of these holes in a single night, destabilizing the root zone and creating tripping hazards. According to Clemson University Extension, armadillos rely heavily on their acute sense of smell to locate grubs, earthworms, and insect larvae, making your lawn an irresistible buffet if soil pest populations are high.
Step 1: Eradicate the Food Source (Grub Control)
You cannot deter an armadillo if their primary food source remains active in your soil. The most effective long-term strategy is eliminating white grubs (the larval stage of Japanese beetles, June bugs, and European chafers). The University of Kentucky Entomology Department recommends targeting grubs when they are young and actively feeding near the soil surface.
Chemical vs. Biological Grub Control
Choosing the right active ingredient depends on your environmental priorities and the severity of the infestation. Apply these treatments between late May and early July for preventative control.
| Active Ingredient | Product Example | Cost (per 5,000 sq ft) | Pollinator Safety | Efficacy Timeline |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Imidacloprid | Bayer Advanced 24 Hour Grub Killer Plus | $20 - $25 | Low (Toxic to bees if applied to blooming weeds) | Fast (24-48 hours) |
| Chlorantraniliprole | Syngenta Acelepryn / GrubEx | $45 - $60 | High (Safe for bees and earthworms) | Slow (2-3 weeks to translocate) |
| Milky Spore (Paenibacillus popilliae) | St. Gabriel Organics Milky Spore Powder | $35 - $40 | High (Strictly targets Japanese beetle grubs) | Very Slow (1-3 years to establish) |
Pro Tip: If you already have an active armadillo problem in mid-summer, use a fast-acting curative insecticide containing Trichlorfon (Dylox). It kills mature grubs within 24 hours, rapidly cutting off the armadillo's food supply, though it degrades quickly in the soil and does not offer long-term prevention.
Step 2: Deploy Physical and Sensory Deterrents
Once the grub population is under control, armadillos may still patrol your yard out of habit. You must make the environment physically inaccessible or highly unappealing.
Sub-Surface Fencing (The Gold Standard)
Armadillos are poor jumpers but exceptional diggers. A standard surface fence will fail because they will simply burrow underneath. The Internet Center for Wildlife Damage Management recommends installing a physical barrier using 1-inch galvanized hardware cloth.
- Depth: Bury the bottom edge at least 18 inches deep, or bend the bottom 12 inches outward at a 90-degree angle (forming an 'L' shape pointing away from the lawn) to catch them as they dig down.
- Height: Extend the fence at least 24 inches above ground. Armadillos can climb slightly if the surface is rough, so smooth metal flashing at the top 6 inches prevents scaling.
Castor Oil Repellents
Castor oil-based repellents coat the soil and the insects within it, causing severe gastrointestinal distress to the armadillo without killing them. Products like Tomcat Mole & Gopher Repellent (ready-to-spray hose-end formulation) cost roughly $15 for a 32 oz bottle covering 5,000 sq ft. Apply heavily to the perimeter of the lawn and water it into the top 2 inches of soil. Reapply every 3 weeks or after heavy rainfall exceeding 1 inch.
Step 3: Humane Trapping Protocols
If exclusion and grub control fail, live trapping is the next viable option. Armadillos have poor eyesight and rely on tactile and olfactory cues, typically traveling along edges, fences, and foundations.
- Select the Right Trap: Use a 10" x 12" x 32" galvanized steel live trap (e.g., Havahart Model 1089, priced around $55-$70). Smaller traps will result in the armadillo's tail triggering the plate without full entry, while larger traps may fail to close quickly enough.
- Strategic Placement: Do not place traps in the middle of an open lawn. Identify the armadillo's runway (a worn path in the grass) or place the trap flush against a fence line or retaining wall where the animal naturally funnels its movement.
- Baiting Strategy: Armadillos do not respond well to standard mammal baits like peanut butter or fruit. Use live mealworms or overripe bananas mixed with moist potting soil. Place the bait in a small mesh bag or bury it slightly at the very back of the trap behind the trigger pan to force the animal to step fully inside.
- Release: Check traps at dawn. Release the armadillo at least 5 miles away in a wooded area with access to water, ensuring you have legal permission to relocate wildlife on the destination property.
Common Trapping Mistakes to Avoid
The most frequent failure mode in armadillo trapping is human scent contamination. Armadillos have a highly sensitive olfactory system. Always wear nitrile gloves when handling the trap and bait. Furthermore, never use apple or berry baits; these attract raccoons and opossums, which will steal the trap and prevent you from catching the target armadillo.
Repairing Armadillo Turf Damage
Once the armadillo is removed, the conical holes left behind can cause mower damage and dry out the surrounding root zones. Do not simply kick dirt back into the holes, as this leads to severe settling and depressions over time.
Mix a 50/50 blend of screened topsoil and coarse play sand. The sand provides structural stability and prevents the fill material from compacting and shrinking when wet. Use a hand trowel to overfill the holes by about half an inch, then tamp down firmly with your boot. Overseed the repaired spots with a shade-tolerant, deep-rooting grass seed blend (like turf-type tall fescue) to re-establish a dense root mat that resists future digging.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do armadillos carry rabies or other diseases?
While armadillos can carry rabies, it is exceedingly rare. The primary health concern associated with nine-banded armadillos is their natural susceptibility to Mycobacterium leprae, the bacterium that causes leprosy (Hansen's disease). Always wear heavy leather gloves when handling traps or disposing of an armadillo carcass, and never consume armadillo meat, as improper cooking can transmit the bacteria.
Will mothballs keep armadillos away?
No. Mothballs (naphthalene or paradichlorobenzene) are highly toxic, illegal to use outdoors as a wildlife repellent, and entirely ineffective against armadillos. The gas dissipates rapidly in open soil, and the strong chemical odor often fails to deter an animal driven by the biological imperative to forage for high-protein grubs.
Do ultrasonic pest repellers work on armadillos?
Solar-powered ultrasonic stakes are a waste of money for armadillo deterrence. Armadillos have poor hearing in the high-frequency ranges emitted by these devices, and the sound waves cannot penetrate the soil where the animal is actively foraging. Stick to physical barriers and grub eradication for verifiable results.

